Legs of Steel? Try Ripping at Ripley Creek

Last Frontier Heliskiing operates out of two distinct locations in its tenure in Northern BC. The first, Bell 2, is our purpose built heliski lodge on the Stewart Cassiar Highway, which is smack dab in the middle of one of the largest heliski tenures in the world. And while Bell 2 is our flagship location, it’s little brother, Ripley Creek, is often overlooked by some of our guests.

Nestled in the southern part of our tenure, Ripley Creek is the location of our smaller lodge. The difference with Ripley Creek is that it is in the town of Stewart, BC. Located right on the ocean, at the head of the Portland Canal, one of the longest fjords in North America, Stewart BC is a former mining town that sits on the edge of the Alaskan Panhandle in some of the steepest, most spectacular mountains in the world. Stewart is an awe inspiring place. The mountains tower over everything here and there is an almost claustrophobic feel to this small town on the edge of nowhere. Last Frontier runs its operations out of the Ripley Creek Inn, which is a small lodge/hotel right in the heart of Stewart along its main street. Across from the Inn is the Bitter Creek Cafe, where we serve all our meals. It’s a cozy, eclectic place and after visiting last year, I can safely say I had some of the best meals of my life there.

The skiing at Ripley is different as well. Where Bell 2 is known for it’s wide open alpine slopes, long tree runs and never ending fields of BC pow, Ripley is all about pillow lines, steeper descents and some of the most epic tree skiing in the world. Don’t get me wrong, I was there in April last year and we had a couple of 40,000ft+ days, one of which saw our group smash 17 laps of blower, high alpine pow and had all of us sore the next day. But in the deepest months of winter, the tree skiing here rivals anywhere in the world. We have a special program for experts skiers called Rippin at Ripley, available during a limited number of weeks. This program is open to 2 groups of 5 skiers only. The pace is quick and your legs will feel it.

Both locations offer up a little bit of everything, but Ripley is my favourite. It’s steep if you want it to be, it’s got lots of options for stormier days but what makes it special is the location. Walking out your door in the morning on a sunny day, the views here are absolutely spectacular in every direction. For someone who has spent a lot of his life scoping new lines, the mountains here offer an endless supply of skiing for any ability, from the Joe to the Pro.

Stewart is another bonus. It’s a former mining town and it’s got character in spades. There are even a couple of local watering holes where guests can mix it up with the locals on any given evening. And just a mile away is Alaska. There isn’t even a US border post here, but bring your passport, because while Hyder, Alaska is walking distance, on your way back, you’ll have to pass through Canada Customs. Both towns harken back to a different time and are rugged and beautiful all at once.

But the skiing here is what makes this place great. With a small crew of guides and a staff, led by Andre Ike, our lead guide and operations manager at Ripley, they are passionate, dedicated and as addicted to pow skiing as you are. My week there last year was all time; some of the best skiing I have ever experienced and we skied about 1 percent of what was on offer. On one morning, we were told we’d be skiing close to Stewart and there was some grumbling from the guests, with whispers of fuel cost savings in the machine. After our first lap, the first of 16 that day, all grumbling ceased. It was the first week of April and we were skiing 5000ft runs to the valley all day, all within a stone’s throw of the town. It was epic.

Whatever you choose, Ripley Creek or Bell 2, there is something a little different on offer. For me, Ripley offers a glimpse into an older, wilder era, where the land is more rugged, and the whole vibe is steeped in the colourful history of the frontier lands of Northern BC. And the skiing? Well the skiing is all time.

Be safe, ski hard and bring a snorkel.